Archival and security context: this text conveys historical procedures and measures from source material from 2017. year. It is not an up-to-date operating manual or a substitute for a licensed plumber, designer, local regulations, manufacturer’s data sheets or an assessment of existing installations. Old installations may contain lead, eternite or asbestos-cement, unknown coatings and other dangerous materials. Do not apply the described open flame brazing, heating, welding, grinding, drilling or makeshift repairs without professional assessment, proper protection, fire control and safe separation of water, electricity and gas. Work on the sewage system carries a biological risk; use a professional service when the cause, material or condition of the installation is not completely known.
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Maintenance of water pipes
Even when the plumbing and sewage system are finished, the “master in the house” cannot rest on his laurels, because he still has to worry about maintenance.
The basic rule is that before any repair, the water should be drained by closing the valve from the part of the network where the failure occurred. You should also determine in advance the type of material of the damaged line because the repair process depends on it. It is very easy to recognize a lead pipe, because its surface is gray and can be easily scratched. It is also the easiest to repair. If water leaks slightly from the pipe, it is enough to determine the place of the microcrack and after a few blows with a hammer, the crack will be closed. Larger cracks must be soldered. The place of the crack and the surrounding area should be cleaned well with a file or knife and cut a little, then heat the crack with a gasoline or other lamp and apply tin solder. If the solder is unevenly distributed, we must level it with a cloth soaked in tallow. When the crack is at the end of the pipe, then the tin should be melted and smeared. Often the lead pipe wears out so much that certain parts need to be completely replaced. For this we have to buy a piece of pipe 20-22 mm longer than the damaged one. One end of the new pipe as well as the lower end of the installed pipe should be widened with a conical plug and cleaned well from the inside, and the ends of the pipe should be cleaned with a file and folded so that there is a 6-8 mm overlap. Sprinkle the joint with powdered resin or grease with soldering grease, and then solder with a gas lamp. Care should be taken not to overheat lead, because it melts even at lower temperatures (fig. 1).
Figure 1 — historical depiction of a lead-pipe repair and lap joint.
Important: The previous paragraph and Figure 1 describe the old processes with lead, open flame, tin, resin and solder paste. Lead is toxic, and heating and working with flames on an unfamiliar installation can cause poisoning, fire, explosion, or damage to hidden wiring. This kind of intervention should be left to a professional person who will determine the material, the permanent solution and compliance with the applicable rules for drinking water.
It is much more difficult to repair steel and cast iron pipes. They can be temporarily fixed by plugging the crack with tow and putty. It is then coated with resin or bitumen and tightly wrapped with insulating tape. At the end it is tightened with a necklace (shell). However, an installer should still be called even if the leak has temporarily stopped. We will completely eliminate the danger of further leakage if the ends of the crack are drilled and soldered with brass. If the material cannot be soldered and we have a welding machine, the drilled places should be welded.
Note: the temporary patch listed is not proof that the pipe is safe or permanently fixed. Drilling, soldering and welding of the existing pipe require determination of the material and content of the pipe, complete emptying and a professional work plan. In the case of plumbing, a permanent solution usually requires replacing the damaged part with a suitable, approved material.
Repair of sinks and installation of faucets
If the sink in the bathroom is broken, it should be replaced, a new one should be installed. First you need to install the consoles of the sink. into the wall. As the upper edge of the sink should usually be 80 cm from the floor, the consoles should be placed so that their upper level is 75 cm from the floor. In the places where the consoles will be attached, the wall should be drilled and wooden pads should be placed in the plaster. After setting the plaster, we fasten the brackets with wood screws. The discharge pipe should be at 52 cm, and the discharge pipe at 50 cm from the floor (fig. 2).
Figure 2 — historical depiction of brackets and connection-pipe heights.
Note on measurements: heights 80 cm, 75 cm, 52 cm and 50 cm are transferred from the original text. They should not be used as universal measures without checking the specific sink, accessibility, finished floor, wall installation, manufacturer’s instructions and applicable regulations. Hidden conduits should be located before drilling.
It often happens that the faucet of the sink becomes loose. You should be very careful with the repair. First you need to remove the faucet and clean the threaded part, seal it with plaster or putty and put it back in place. However, before we can tighten the bottom nut, we need to place a lead washer under it (Fig. 3 left side).
Replacing wall faucets is also simple. The discharge pipe should be 115 cm from the floor. The end of this pipe, which is otherwise flush with the wall, is used for the faucet connection. The drainage pipe is also here at 52 cm from the floor. During assembly, we place the wall faucet on the wall and mark the holes so that we start from the pressure pipe. After we mark and cut the wall, we place the wooden spacers in the plaster and after the plaster is fixed, we install it. Finally, put the faucet in place (fig. 3, right side).
Figure 3 — securing a pillar tap and the historical position of a wall tap.
Note on measurements and materials: height 115 cm and 52 cm, as well as the lead coaster and the installation of wooden coasters in plaster, are part of the historical display. Modern installation must follow the fastening, sealing and connection system prescribed by the manufacturer, with a check of the bearing capacity of the wall and hidden installations.
Faucet repair
There are two types of faucets used in domestic plumbing: discharge faucets and shut-off faucets (pass faucets). With the help of shut-off valves, we can empty certain parts of the water network. Faucets are made from brass, aluminum, various alloys and cast iron. One of the most important parts of faucets is the valve seat, which together with the valve disc prevents the passage of water. In order for these two parts to close the passage well and flawlessly, a soft rubber or leather plate is placed between them, as a seal. There is a threaded part inside the faucet body and it regulates, directly or indirectly, the valve stem. The part between the faucet body and stem (sealing sleeve) is sealed with tallow-soaked tow and bolted in place. On the lower part of the spindle there is a single flat disc on which the seal is placed. At the other end of the valve stem are the cranks (picture 4).
Figure 4 — parts of a classic tap with a threaded spindle.
The most common failure of the faucet is that when the seal is damaged, the faucet leaks. The fault is eliminated by unscrewing the valve housing and installing a new gasket, but first thoroughly cleaning the valve seat. The tap for cold water is sealed with soft rubber, and for hot water with Klingerite. The faucet will leak, too, if the valve body gasket is leaking. This defect is eliminated by replacing the old tow seal. First, we turn out the valve housing and remove the old gasket, then in the direction opposite to the thread, we wind a new tow on the valve housing. After soaking the seal with tallow, the valve body can be screwed into place.
After long-term use, the sealing sleeve can also leak water. This fault can be remedied by turning the sealing ring one or two turns with a wrench or pliers. If the water is still leaking, then, in the already known way, we put a new string smeared with tallow into the sealing sleeve. Often, instead of tow rope, insulating tape is used, which is wound on the thread.
In many apartments, faucets are used, the opening and closing of which is done in such a way that the extended discharge part is moved to the left or right. Leakage of such a faucet can be eliminated only by sanding. The nut on the lower part of the faucet is unscrewed and the rotating part is removed. Then the rotating part is smeared with a mixture of sanding sand soaked in oil and rotated in the bearing. After sanding for a few minutes, the outlet is removed and cleaned again. Grinding continues until the two surfaces fit flawlessly.
Important: before disassembling the faucet, close the supply and check that the pressure is relieved. Rubber, leather, clinkerite, and tow seals and the grinding process are described for older types of faucets; they are not automatically suitable for modern ceramic heads, cartridges, flexible hoses and materials intended for drinking water. Use parts and procedures approved by the manufacturer.
Siphon repair and cleaning
Siphons, which are installed in the drainage pipes, prevent the unpleasant odors of waste water from coming out of the sewage pipes. If the siphon is leaking somewhere, the seal must be checked first. It is necessary to unscrew the nut (hollander) at the drain pipe connection, clean and put a new seal. It is also possible that the siphon is cracked and leaking water. Cracks on lead siphons can be removed with hammer blows or soldering. Siphons, on the other hand, made of brass and cast iron can be repaired temporarily by smearing the crack and the surrounding area well with resin or tar and tightening it with a steel collar. Damaged siphons made of plastic can be glued with PVC glue, but it is best to replace them.
If we clean the siphons regularly, we extend their life and they will rarely become clogged. In the case of metal siphons, the screw on the lower part should be unscrewed and the dirt removed with a piece of wire. The lower part of the plastic siphons is threaded so that it can be removed and cleaned. When cleaning, it is necessary to wash the siphon with water. After returning the cap, or of the lower threaded part, it should be properly sealed.
Hygiene note: the contents of siphons and sewers may contain pathogens and sharp objects. The space should be ventilated, eyes and skin should be protected, splashing and contact with food surfaces should be prevented, and waste and tools should be treated hygienically. Do not mix chemical degassing agents or disassemble the system while pressurized or in danger of spillage.
Toilet boiler repair
We rarely have problems with the toilet flusher, so if it ever needs to be repaired, we must inspect it first. First, let’s examine the attachment of the kettle, ie. if it’s not perhaps the tank brackets in the wall are loose. If necessary, you need to remove the wood screws, put wood pieces in their place and put the screws back. If the kettle leaks somewhere, it can be repaired by soldering (fig. 5, upper part). Sometimes it is necessary to repair the internal mechanism of the kettle. The most common failure is when the faucet does not close properly and the water constantly leaks. In such cases, the safety taps should be closed, the boiler tap should be disassembled and the sealing rubber should be replaced. This rubber can be bought as a ready-made product, but we can also make it ourselves (Fig. 5, middle part). The float should also be checked when assembling the mechanism. If it is punctured, we have to pour water out of it and solder the hole. We can glue the plastic float with PVC glue. In some cases, the failure can also occur due to a bad adjustment of the weight or wear of the rubber plate, which is on it. In the first case, the length of the handle on which the weight hangs should be adjusted, and in the second, by unscrewing the screw on the lower part of the weight, replace the rubber plate.
Figure 5 — historical depiction of a cistern, valve and mechanical drain cleaning.
Important: soldering a metal kettle or float, improvised bracing and working on an old mechanism are not universally safe practices. Shut off the water, stabilize the kettle and use the appropriate spare parts. Cracked ceramics and unsafe wall brackets require replacement or professional intervention.
Drainage and sewage pipes
Waste water from the sink, sink, toilet and bathtub is removed from the apartment through the sewage system. For receiving points, the amount of water that flows out per second, the smallest diameter of the sewer pipe that is required for the water drainage, the diameter of the siphon and the height of the closure in the siphon should be taken into account. The most important part of these devices is the siphon, which usually has the shape of the letter S, V or P. The water seal is placed in the curves. It is very important that the siphons are regularly cleaned and maintained, because the accumulated waste water can only be removed through the siphon. Drain pipes are made of lead, cast iron, PVC or eternite. We can easily shape lead pipes by hitting them with a wooden hammer if we first fill them with sand. They are joined by soldering. If they are installed in a wall or ground, they should be previously coated with bitumen or tar, and if they are loaded with a load, they should be placed in a channel and a brick should be placed above the pipe. PVC pipes can be: sawed, easily shaped in warm water, welded with hot air or hot metal, glued with PVC glue. The bonding time of the glue is 14 hours. It is not recommended to use PVC pipes for hot water because they deteriorate quickly. PVC pipes are made in two qualities. “Pressure” pipes are stronger and can withstand higher pressures of the water network. Sewer pipes have less strength, are significantly cheaper and can only be used as sewer pipes. Cast iron pipes are usually installed outside the walls. The diameters of cast pipes are 50-150 mm. They are joined with melted lead or bitumen and the joint is reinforced with collars. Eternite pipes can be easily cut with a saw. If they are installed in the ground, they are protected from groundwater with bitumen both externally and internally. Heads for connections (muffs) are always placed on the upper part of the pipe, and in the case of horizontally laid pipes, always opposite to the direction of flow. Sealing is done with tow and cement coating.
Sewer pipes can be cleaned with a scraper, mounted on a wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm, a wire brush, etc. The easiest way to remove blockages on devices is with an anti-clogging pump. These pumps can be bought ready-made, but we can also make them ourselves using a round wooden handle and an old rubber ball. The ball should be cut in half and drilled in the middle, then attached to the handle with a wood screw and washer. When removing the blockage, fill the sink with water and place the pump on the opening and press well. Pumping should be repeated until the drain pipe is cleaned. In a similar way, we can remove the clogging of the toilet bowl. If we do not succeed in this way, we should place a hook on the wire for cleaning the sewer pipes, push it into the opening of the toilet and unclog the cup by moving it back and forth and turning it constantly. First, of course, fill the toilet bowl with water. When we remove the blockage, the water will go away and we can take out the wire (fig. 5, lower part).
Special warning for old pipes: “eternite pipes” in historical text may be asbestos cement. Do not cut, grind, drill, break or clean them with a method that creates dust. Identification, removal and disposal must be carried out by an authorized professional service according to current regulations. Claims about bitumen, lead, PVC, molding temperature, setting time of 14 hours and diameters of 50-150 mm do not represent a modern specification; are checked for correct product, purpose and local regulations.
Safe Choking: An improvised wire or hook can puncture the pipe, injure the user, or become stuck in the installation. An unknown route, repeated clogging, sewer backflow, leakage in the wall or floor, an unpleasant smell that does not disappear or suspicion of a damaged pipe require a professional inspection and appropriate equipment. Do not mix acids, bases, variquin or other agents and do not continue work if there is a risk of splashes, gases or spills.