Archival practical content: this article preserves a historical overview of painting, decorating and wallpapering tools. It is not an up-to-date guide to selecting coatings, working with chemicals, spraying, working at height or removing old paint. Before starting, identify the substrate and coating, read the technical and safety data sheets, and check the ventilation and required personal protective equipment. Old coatings, mortar and insulation may contain hazardous substances; do not sand, scrape, heat or spray an unidentified surface without expert assessment.
Today, Savo Kusić focuses on wooden windows, wood-aluminium windows, custom-made windows, doors and requests for quotation. This article remains as a historical archive and does not represent an offer of painting, decorating or wallpapering services.
Tools for wall painting and other coating work do not differ greatly. If they are carefully cleaned in a way that suits the particular coating, the same tool can be used for different purposes.
Paint brushes
The bristles or fibres of a brush are usually attached to the handle by a metal ferrule. The original text describes hog-bristle brushes as the highest quality, with lighter bristles used for harder brushes and darker bristles for softer ones, while synthetic fibres are described as more resistant but producing a poorer result. This is a historical assessment; today, the fibre must be selected for the particular coating and in accordance with its manufacturer’s instructions.
Brushes can be rectangular, round, oval or flat. A large rectangular brush is chosen according to the job: a smaller one for oil or synthetic paints, a medium one for water-based coatings, and a large one for lime and tempera. The text states 14 × 4 centimeters as an average measure, suitable for the first layer and penetration of the coating into pores and unevenness.
Round brushes are produced in various sizes and are used for finishing coats on a prepared surface. The historical text associates harder brushes with synthetic and oil-based paints, and softer ones with enamels and nitrocellulose lacquers. For larger surfaces, ferrules measuring from 30 × 45 to 45 × 60 millimetres are specified.
Flat brushes are intended for flat surfaces. The most commonly mentioned widths are from 4 to 8 centimeters, with hard or soft fibers. Their advantage in the text is a more even application of the coating.
The radiator brush is flat, with a handle from 40 to 50 centimeters long and a fitting bent at a right angle. It is intended for hard-to-reach parts of radiators and similar objects. A brush with a bent handle and fibers arranged like a roller is also mentioned.
Special brushes are used for sketching, pattern work, artistic painting and other specific tasks. In the historical text, the “šajben” brush is a wooden, bristle brush; because of its weight and size, brush number 5 is mentioned most often. A worn brush is described as a tool for washing away paint and cleaning containers, while a new one is first used for applying soapy water so that the tips of the fibres wear slightly. Soaking parts in linseed oil is also mentioned.
On a round brush, part of the bristles can be tied with string, leaving a free length of 4–5 cm. Such a brush is described for the edges of doors and windows, angles and corners (Figure 1, part 1).
A small “lioner” brush can be flat or round. For occasional work, the source mentions a flat brush 2–10 cm wide (Figure 1, part 3).
Figure 1 — examples of brushes and how they were used.
Smoothing brushes with finer bristles, suitable for evening out tough and uneven surfaces and applying lacquers, are mentioned for levelling oil-based coatings (Figure 1, part 2).
Fibers, solvents and cleaning: the brush is selected according to the specific coating. Nitrocellulose, oil and other solvent products can be flammable and harmful by inhalation. Brushes are not washed in food containers, and waste solvent, wash water and cloths are disposed of according to product instructions and local regulations.
Historical improvised brushes
The text describes the making of a brush from a thick artificial sponge, glue, scissors, a razor and an old handle. The sponge is inserted into a cleaned metal holder or the handle is wrapped with strong paper or tape, then glued and shortened.
Sponge tools are also mentioned for decorative dots, finishing lines and even strokes drawn along a straightedge. A strip of sponge can be glued to a thin batten.
Cutting and gluing: Razor, knife and scissors require a stable surface, cutting away from the body and hand protection. The glue and sponge must be compatible with the paint and solvent; improvised tools that dissolve, separate or leave particles are not used.
The line brushes in the source text produce lines 0,5–3 cm wide and have a long handle (Figure 2).
Figure 2 — brushes and the historical method of drawing straight lines.
Another historical aid is described as a plastic bottle with a strip of sponge or felt in its opening. The text gives the strip’s cross-section as 8 × 8 cm and its length as 3 cm, with two-thirds of the strip in the bottle and about 1/2 cm outside it. The bottle containing fluid paint is held horizontally and pressed lightly.
Do not make a pressure vessel: an improvised bottle is used only if the material is chemically compatible, without pressure and with a secure closure. Food or cosmetic packaging is not used to store the paint as it may lead to misuse.
Cleaning brushes
Steel brushes in the text are used for removing rust and deposits from metal, and softer fibers for fine cleaning and washing of walls and woodwork. Some brushes can be fitted with a longer handle.
Dust and old surfaces: a steel brush can shed wires and create hazardous dust. Eye protection, suitable respiratory protection and controlled waste collection are required. Do not use it on an unidentified old coating without testing.
Rollers and tampons
The historical text describes embossed rubber pattern rollers with a reservoir, as well as a synthetic-fibre “teddy” roller without one. Drawing a straight pass requires experience and a visual guide such as a door or corner.
Storing a washed roller in glycerine and filling from a makeshift container are mentioned as older practices. Today, the roller is washed, stored and reused only according to the type of coating and the manufacturer’s instructions; no container intended for food or waste is used.
Rollers can replace brushes on walls, ceilings and larger flat surfaces. In the text, the long hair is associated with tempera and lime, the medium with oily and dark colors, and the short with the final transition over the lacquered surface. The most common stated length of the roller is about 20 centimeters. A metal mesh or tub is used to remove excess paint, while an embossed rubber roller gives the pattern.
The paint pad is a rectangular support with synthetic foam and mohair fabric. It is intended for flat, smooth or moderately rough surfaces. Large pads are used for walls and ceilings, medium-sized pads for smaller areas, and small pads for frames and narrow sections. Guides and edge guards are also mentioned.
Working above floor level: a vertical roller stroke is not a reason to overreach from the top of a ladder. Use a stable platform or an extension handle approved for the tool. Do not stand on prohibited rungs or move the support while someone is on it.
Gas or petrol blowtorch
The original text describes a wide flame of a lamp used to heat the old paint until it softens, then it is removed with a spatula or scraper. It is advised to constantly move the flame so that the substrate does not overheat.
This historic procedure is not a safe guide: an open flame on old paint can start a fire, ignite hidden dust or voids, and release toxic gases. Unknown color does not heat up. For the removal of the coating, a method is chosen from the technical documentation after testing the substrate, with dust control, ventilation and fire prevention measures.
Putty knives, filling knives and scrapers
Putty knives are flexible steel blades used to apply filler and level holes and cracks. The Japanese filling knives in the text are about 12 centimetres long and 2 to 12 centimetres wide. A flexible filling knife 8–12 cm wide is specified for painting work.
Scrapers are harder and sharper steel sheets for removing old paint, wallpaper and other deposits. A triangular scraper is used for smaller openings and cracks, and there are also rectangular, oval and trapezoidal shapes.
Blades and work surface: push the filling knife and scraper away from the body, using a stable work surface and eye protection. Before scraping, check whether the coating or substrate contains lead, asbestos or other hazardous substances.
Buckets, strainers and containers
Buckets are used for preparing and storing paint. The historical text mentions at least two plastic buckets and the possibility of using color packaging from 25 to 30 kilograms. Shallow tubs are used for the roller, and mesh strainers are used when the coating needs to be filtered.
Brushes are kept suspended in water or a suitable solvent during a long break in operation, so that the fibers are not deformed. The choice of liquid and closed container must comply with the safety data sheet; flammable solvent is not left open or unmarked.
A wetting brush is used for washing walls or wetting the surface before wet scraping. Sponges are used for cleaning and removing fresh paint.
Putty, sandpaper and masking tape
Putty is chosen according to the substrate — wall, wood or metal — and according to internal or external application. Sandpaper is used for removing surface rust, leveling and smoothing putty layers. Self-adhesive crepe tape protects surfaces from dripping and is removed according to coating instructions.
Sanding and preparation: extraction at source and suitable respiratory protection are more important than the choice of grit alone. Do not sand an unidentified old coating or create combustible dust near ignition sources.
Spray-painting equipment
The historical overview includes hand pumps, aerosol cans, electric guns and compressor systems. A professional system consists of a gun and a suitable compressor, while smaller devices can be tankless or connected to another drive.
The electric spray gun in the text uses a small pump and a connection to the domestic electricity supply. The limited pressure is said to require correctly thinned paint, while newer models produce a more uniform and adjustable spray.
Spraying introduces special hazards: aerosols and fine mist increase inhalation, skin deposition, ignition risk and uncontrolled dispersion. A product approved for spraying, ventilation or dedicated extraction, a suitable respirator, grounding where prescribed, control of ignition sources, and protection of nearby people and surfaces are required. Electrical equipment must be suitable for the zone and product.
The original text mentions nitrocellulose lacquer in a 16 dkg aerosol can. The historical conditions given are a can temperature of 18–20 °C, a distance of 25–30 cm and parallel horizontal guidance of the spray across a vertical surface. The spray is first tested on waste paper, and movement in an arc is described as a cause of uneven thickness (Figure 3).
Figure 3 — historical illustration of guiding the spray and checking an aerosol can.
In the original process, the coating is applied in thin passes, with at least 5 minutes between layers. To use the rest, turning the bottle by 180° and readjusting the head is described.
The 16 dkg can in the text is estimated to cover about 2,5 m2 of surface, with 12 hours to complete drying. After use, the process describes turning the can upside down and pressing it briefly until only propellant emerges, then cleaning around the spray nozzle with cotton wool and thinner.
Label instructions take precedence: historical temperatures, distances, time between coats, coverage, drying and cleaning procedures are not universal. Do not puncture, open, heat or throw an aerosol can into a fire, even when it appears empty. Do not force-test a blocked or clogged can; dispose of it as required by the manufacturer and local regulations.
Scaffolding and ladders
The text mentions small working scaffolds about 1 m high and warns that they must be set up securely, especially when their height is increased. Additional elements for stepladders and straight ladders are suggested for more comfortable work and to protect windows.
Do not improvise access: do not stack scaffolds without a purpose-designed system or add battens, platforms or extensions to a ladder unless approved by the manufacturer. Check support, angle, base, locking, load capacity and fall protection before work. Use a suitable platform for prolonged or lateral work.
Wallpapering tools
The decorating work in the original text includes hanging wallcoverings, replacing fabric and parts of upholstered furniture, and partially covering floors. The tools listed are a scraper, filling knife, trowel, scissors, sharp knife, seam roller, metal ruler, paste brush, wetting brush, wallpaper smoothing brush and plumb line.
A sufficiently long work surface is useful. The historical decorator’s table is described as measuring about 2 m × 0,5 m when unfolded and taking up little space when folded.
Also mentioned are a wide clamp with resilient jaws for holding the top end of a wallcovering and a “Stanley” knife with a short replaceable blade for paper, card, veneer, thin plywood, leather and floor coverings.
Knife, glue and old substrate: the blade is guided along a solid guide and away from the body, and a dull or damaged one is replaced immediately. The glue is chosen according to the wallpaper and the substrate. Before removing the old covering, you should check for moisture, mold and possible hazardous substances, and isolate electrical sockets and switches safely.